Lome, Togo's capital and largest city, is unlike any other African capital I've been to. It is very poor and lacking even the very beginnings of a tourist trade. Yet it also has the charmingly unpolished nature about it. That is - and this is going to sound harsh - but when you're in a place that is trying so hard to pretty up things for western tourists (e.g Cape Town, South Africa), the pot-holes and shanty towns hit you hard: you realize the stark contrast between the haves and have-nots.
Lome, on the other hand, has few pretenses (or more like the ability to maintain pretenses) about being a tourism hot spot. There are a couple nice hotels and fancier restaurants, but they are poorly kept up and are not much to look at. Lome does not have the fancy well-kept districts you see elsewhere. And it's a good thing because there are very few ex-pats here and even fewer tourists to go there. I certainly felt out of place as a white person elsewhere in Africa, but seldom have I been so scarce. Oddly, this gives the city a type of charm: people are living their lives not for this lack of tourist economy but completely in spite of it. I don't know if this is a good thing for me to feel, but the fact that there isn't a whole lot of outside wealth coming in and surrounding the poverty actually let's me forget my white/liberal/western guilt just a little bit more.
The culture of street vendors seems to also reflect the lack of outside money. In the Cape Towns and Rabats of the world, the street vendors eye-in on the tourists to sell their various trinkets and souvenirs. In Lome, the vendors don't sell Togolese masks or carvings, but simple commodities. Whether you are stopped at a traffic light, walking into the supermarket or just strolling around the market, you will see scores of people selling everything from boxes of kleenex to Chinese made belts to mangoes (yes, delicious!). It becomes clear that none of these men or woman is trying to climb the economic ladder and start a business. They are simply trying to make ends meet. And while I am singled out as a "Yovo" or white person quite readily in these situations, it is usually not to try to sell me something or even if it is to sell me a phone card or something else, they do this just as they would sell it to a Togolais.
The way food is ordered at local restaurants is another particularity of Lome, one that seems to borrows from this type of subsistence history. At most places around the world, you order the quantity of food you want - a medium fry, a 1/4 chicken etc. - and you pay the price associated with that amount. However, the local restaurants here flip that around: you tell them how much money's worth of something you want and they give you whatever quantity that is. True, prices don't change too much and people tend to know how much 500 CFAs of something is, however the idea of having a fixed income and letting your appetite be satisfied is certainly not something I am used to. I can't imagine going to an Italian place and asing for $5.64 worth of pasta.
With these examples, I don't want to paint too dire a picture of Lome. It has beautiful beaches. The people are super friendly. The food is delicious. bOne of the great things about not having many tourists is that it is very safe, even downtown in the big market. But, I can't help think the most striking part is that the capital - the largest and supposedly most developed part of tihs country - is stuck in the past. . Looking across the dusty, pot-hole-ridden streets and being amazed by friendliness of those who come off them, I wonder what the prospects are for Togo.
Tomorrow I head back up north to Farende, finally. I should have a good chance to explore this next week and will get back to y'all with my take in a week.
Until then!
Alex
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Friday, June 19, 2009
Whew...
So, I apologize for being out of touch for so long. However, in my defense, I was a little busy testing out the ins and outs of the Togolese health care from Mountain, to village to city. That is, I had a bit of an accident.
Do not fear, I am OK. Well my pride is a bit shot, but luckily I have plenty of that. Anyway, this is what happened...
Last Wednesday the 10th we (two other Duke in Togo students and my amazing friend David Fiocco who was dropping by to visit me Togo on his way from Sierra Leone to Uganda and the professor who is leading the trip, Charlie Piot) headed up North to begin our work up there for the summer. After the 6 hour drive on often-nice roads, we got to the mountain village of Kude where we would be spending the first night. This community welcomed us with open arms, local beer and a ceremonially killed chicken (apparently they like it when the chicken flails about after its throat has been cut...)
The night was coming to an end after a good meal as we were sitting around a small table at a dimly lit, rocky homestead. I had to go to the bathroom, which meant finding a suitable patch of dirt on the mountain-top. As I got up to make this happen, stepping over my friend, I suddenly felt a little light in the head. I stumbled up against the wall and regained my balance, but not for long.
The next thing I remember is waking up lying with my eyes shut, hearing people talking around me. I was cold, shivering actually. I had lost consciousness after that brief stumble, and fallen across the homestead, down two steps, forehead flat against the stone ground. My eyes were shut because of the swelling of that impact and my head hurt. But, the medical assistant from the clinic, who I had met on my way up the mountain was called and I was taken good care of. The cuts and swelling weren't (and still aren't) pretty, but I will survive. I spent a few days in my homestay recovering (this was their introduction to me) before heading back to Lome for some tests. The results were good, no brain damage but a little bit of a fracture and some blood in my sinus; nothing time shouldn't be able to heal I'm hoping to get back to the village early next week and really begin this trip.
It was a, if you will, rocky start to my summer and I am deeply looking forward to getting back on track. However, a silver lining was the chance to look at the health care of Togo at a few different levels. My cuts were cleaned and bandaged a few times up in rural Farende. The medical assistant was firm, very firm, but fair, making sure - with some elbow grease and tough love - that my cuts were clean. I probably could have used a couple stitches, but this wasn't in the cards. They gave me antibiotics and something for the pain and they refused to take any money for me for helping me. No infection to-date, so bravo.
The CT scan and EEG scan in Lome were brief and to the point. The facillities weren't fancy but were more than adequate. I was excited to see that the waiting room had some Togolese newpapers. Turns out there were two years old, but this didn't seem to matter - news included "President of Togo visits soccer match." This hospital, on the other hand, was happy to take my money.
Certainly an adventure but, hopefuly a one-off. I am currently resting up in Lome, the capital, which is an interesting city. More to come on that soon!
Hope you all are well!
Alex
Do not fear, I am OK. Well my pride is a bit shot, but luckily I have plenty of that. Anyway, this is what happened...
Last Wednesday the 10th we (two other Duke in Togo students and my amazing friend David Fiocco who was dropping by to visit me Togo on his way from Sierra Leone to Uganda and the professor who is leading the trip, Charlie Piot) headed up North to begin our work up there for the summer. After the 6 hour drive on often-nice roads, we got to the mountain village of Kude where we would be spending the first night. This community welcomed us with open arms, local beer and a ceremonially killed chicken (apparently they like it when the chicken flails about after its throat has been cut...)
The night was coming to an end after a good meal as we were sitting around a small table at a dimly lit, rocky homestead. I had to go to the bathroom, which meant finding a suitable patch of dirt on the mountain-top. As I got up to make this happen, stepping over my friend, I suddenly felt a little light in the head. I stumbled up against the wall and regained my balance, but not for long.
The next thing I remember is waking up lying with my eyes shut, hearing people talking around me. I was cold, shivering actually. I had lost consciousness after that brief stumble, and fallen across the homestead, down two steps, forehead flat against the stone ground. My eyes were shut because of the swelling of that impact and my head hurt. But, the medical assistant from the clinic, who I had met on my way up the mountain was called and I was taken good care of. The cuts and swelling weren't (and still aren't) pretty, but I will survive. I spent a few days in my homestay recovering (this was their introduction to me) before heading back to Lome for some tests. The results were good, no brain damage but a little bit of a fracture and some blood in my sinus; nothing time shouldn't be able to heal I'm hoping to get back to the village early next week and really begin this trip.
It was a, if you will, rocky start to my summer and I am deeply looking forward to getting back on track. However, a silver lining was the chance to look at the health care of Togo at a few different levels. My cuts were cleaned and bandaged a few times up in rural Farende. The medical assistant was firm, very firm, but fair, making sure - with some elbow grease and tough love - that my cuts were clean. I probably could have used a couple stitches, but this wasn't in the cards. They gave me antibiotics and something for the pain and they refused to take any money for me for helping me. No infection to-date, so bravo.
The CT scan and EEG scan in Lome were brief and to the point. The facillities weren't fancy but were more than adequate. I was excited to see that the waiting room had some Togolese newpapers. Turns out there were two years old, but this didn't seem to matter - news included "President of Togo visits soccer match." This hospital, on the other hand, was happy to take my money.
Certainly an adventure but, hopefuly a one-off. I am currently resting up in Lome, the capital, which is an interesting city. More to come on that soon!
Hope you all are well!
Alex
Tuesday, June 09, 2009
The Trip (Le Trajet)*
I like airports a lot. They are where random people are herded together like cattle, thought lines and various other holding pens. Unlike cattle - no disrespect to them - everyone in the airport has a story to tell. Wedding or funeral, vacation or visit, love or lounging. While so many situations put us around these people (say buses & elevators), fewer are the ones that give us the right framework to start up a conversation with a stranger. Waiting for the flight you are both taking, or stuck next to someone as the plane idles on the tarmac. I was reminded of this as the airport was the start to my adventure this summer.
On my way to Togo, I planned a couple little escales (stopovers) in Morocco and New York since my first flight left through JFK and took me through Casablanca en route. NYC was great - stayed with my good friend Noaufel and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the city as I saw some of my other friends camped out there.
Then, I headed to Rabat, via Casablanca, to see my old stomping grounds (see blog posts below fron 2007!) and a couple of my friends who are from there. My plan was to get into Casa and hop on a train to Rabat. Easy enough, right? That would soon change.
As I sat strategically placed on the floor with my back to a column that happend to have an outlet in JFK airport , charging my iphone like the consummate travelling Gen Yer, a middle-aged woman wearing a Hijab asked for my help in broken English. She was in way over her head, travelling by herself with three kids under four including an infant and a bunch of bags. It turned out to be a facsinating story. She was a winner of the green card lottery a few years ago who lives in upstate NY with her husband and 3 kids. However, for some reason her husband couldnt join her green card so he is in the US illegally. So, she was travelling to visit her family with her kids for the first time in 4 years by herself because if her husband left he couldn't return. But, my goodness, was it a tough trip for her - what a saint! An infant on her back and a 3 and 5 year old scampering around. Through security, baggage claim, lines everywhere...a very courageous woman!
Anyway, to her question I responded in similarly imperfect French, telling her I'd be happy to help, having no idea where this would lead me. It turns out her family in Morocco lives in Rabat. As she found out my destination, in typically Moroccan fashion she offered me a ride. I hestitated at first knowing how much stuff she had but she strongly insisted. So, we arrived in Casa and we embarked on the drive to her house. But the kindess did not stop. Not only was I given the front seat on the drive, I was welcomed as the guest of honor even as her family had not seen her for 4 years. They served me a full meal of prune and beef tagine, couscous (it was friday, the day when everyone in Morocco has couscous), salad and some delicious, very sweet carrot juice.
One gesture that showed this generosity concerned the TV. Upon my arrival they showed me to their modest apartment and into the TV room. Of course they had satellite TV so the grandfather of the kids flipped on the TV and surfed over to France 24 in English. Surprised, I told him that I didn't know he spoke English. Turns out he doesn't, he put that on just for me, some stranger who he met an hour ago.
But it is this attitude of genorosity that I've found throughout the developing world on my travels and it continues in Togo. I arrived a couple days ago and my next post will be about my arrival to Lome (hopefully with pictures!), so keep tuned, but the first and most salient thing as I try to process the sights and sounds and put pen to paper about them has been this openness of spirit and friendliness. It really has me in awe just how willing people are to be just plain nice to you, the stranger. I know most people say that about the places they visit, especially those off the beaten track, but I want to find out whatùs in the water here (in the best of the expression)! Until next time!
*I'm loving working on my French so my apologies in advance for the French words that will sully this blog!
On my way to Togo, I planned a couple little escales (stopovers) in Morocco and New York since my first flight left through JFK and took me through Casablanca en route. NYC was great - stayed with my good friend Noaufel and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the city as I saw some of my other friends camped out there.
Then, I headed to Rabat, via Casablanca, to see my old stomping grounds (see blog posts below fron 2007!) and a couple of my friends who are from there. My plan was to get into Casa and hop on a train to Rabat. Easy enough, right? That would soon change.
As I sat strategically placed on the floor with my back to a column that happend to have an outlet in JFK airport , charging my iphone like the consummate travelling Gen Yer, a middle-aged woman wearing a Hijab asked for my help in broken English. She was in way over her head, travelling by herself with three kids under four including an infant and a bunch of bags. It turned out to be a facsinating story. She was a winner of the green card lottery a few years ago who lives in upstate NY with her husband and 3 kids. However, for some reason her husband couldnt join her green card so he is in the US illegally. So, she was travelling to visit her family with her kids for the first time in 4 years by herself because if her husband left he couldn't return. But, my goodness, was it a tough trip for her - what a saint! An infant on her back and a 3 and 5 year old scampering around. Through security, baggage claim, lines everywhere...a very courageous woman!
Anyway, to her question I responded in similarly imperfect French, telling her I'd be happy to help, having no idea where this would lead me. It turns out her family in Morocco lives in Rabat. As she found out my destination, in typically Moroccan fashion she offered me a ride. I hestitated at first knowing how much stuff she had but she strongly insisted. So, we arrived in Casa and we embarked on the drive to her house. But the kindess did not stop. Not only was I given the front seat on the drive, I was welcomed as the guest of honor even as her family had not seen her for 4 years. They served me a full meal of prune and beef tagine, couscous (it was friday, the day when everyone in Morocco has couscous), salad and some delicious, very sweet carrot juice.
One gesture that showed this generosity concerned the TV. Upon my arrival they showed me to their modest apartment and into the TV room. Of course they had satellite TV so the grandfather of the kids flipped on the TV and surfed over to France 24 in English. Surprised, I told him that I didn't know he spoke English. Turns out he doesn't, he put that on just for me, some stranger who he met an hour ago.
But it is this attitude of genorosity that I've found throughout the developing world on my travels and it continues in Togo. I arrived a couple days ago and my next post will be about my arrival to Lome (hopefully with pictures!), so keep tuned, but the first and most salient thing as I try to process the sights and sounds and put pen to paper about them has been this openness of spirit and friendliness. It really has me in awe just how willing people are to be just plain nice to you, the stranger. I know most people say that about the places they visit, especially those off the beaten track, but I want to find out whatùs in the water here (in the best of the expression)! Until next time!
*I'm loving working on my French so my apologies in advance for the French words that will sully this blog!
Monday, June 08, 2009
Le Togo
Hi again! So after two years of nothing interesting happening in my life, I will be blogging again this year as I explore Togo! I had the opportunity this summer to go anywhere in the world and do something for my personal development. Pretty neat, huh?
Overwhelmed by this choice, I decided to go somewhere in francophone West Africa and try to investigate grassroots democracy there. As luck would have it, I happen to stumble across the Duke in Togo Program through a good friend of mine, Meggie Staffiera, and it sounded like a great opportunity. If you're anything like me, you are asking yourself "where the hell is Togo?" Well check out this map.
So, this summer I will be spending most of the time in a small village in the north called Farende. I will spend the first couple weeks getting a lay of the lan' but then it is likely that I will help further develop a local tax system to provide for some of the public goods in this villlage (think latrine at marketplace, fix roads etc). As a poli sci major at UNC who is about to start at Georgetown's MSFS program where I will get a 2 year MA focusing on international development and someone who is interested in promoting and improving democracy this will be a great adventure (read: crash course) in rural life and community organizing there!
So, keep posted and I really do appreciate comments (I will be oh so lonely!) so don't be shy!
Au revoir!
Alex
Overwhelmed by this choice, I decided to go somewhere in francophone West Africa and try to investigate grassroots democracy there. As luck would have it, I happen to stumble across the Duke in Togo Program through a good friend of mine, Meggie Staffiera, and it sounded like a great opportunity. If you're anything like me, you are asking yourself "where the hell is Togo?" Well check out this map.
So, this summer I will be spending most of the time in a small village in the north called Farende. I will spend the first couple weeks getting a lay of the lan' but then it is likely that I will help further develop a local tax system to provide for some of the public goods in this villlage (think latrine at marketplace, fix roads etc). As a poli sci major at UNC who is about to start at Georgetown's MSFS program where I will get a 2 year MA focusing on international development and someone who is interested in promoting and improving democracy this will be a great adventure (read: crash course) in rural life and community organizing there!
So, keep posted and I really do appreciate comments (I will be oh so lonely!) so don't be shy!
Au revoir!
Alex
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